An Afternoon in Westport on Clew Bay

As we carefully picked our way among the islands on a rising tide, the sunlight streamed in welcome warmth. It was another remarkably calm day on this often wind-swept coast.  There was little swell so the ride was relatively smooth.   The way into the Quay was well marked.  We picked our way cautiously among shallows until we made our way past the old factory and ruins on Roman Island. (It’s too bad that there’s such blight on such a magical spot.) As we rounded the bend and entered the Quay area, we chose our spot close to the head of the harbour where we tied up to one of the fishing vessels. There are stairs and ladders all along the wall, providing good access to the street level.

We strolled leisurely along the Quay looking into shop windows and greeting other strollers.  We bought a Sunday paper and then moseyed back to The Helm, one of our new favourite places for lunch.  We were greeted warmly at the door, given a choice of bar or table, and soon the lovely creamy Guinness was flowing.  Every table was packed. The atmosphere was jovial, with families and groups enjoying a hearty winter lunch with friends.

I had the seafood chowder which, always a winner, warmed my core. Alex had a burger done just the way he likes. We were satiated and toasty, ready to head back out on the Bay towards home.  Of course, we had to stop on a couple of the islands to explore a treasure or two washed up in the last storm.  There’s always a treasure waiting to be discovered. 

It was a glorious day on beautiful Clew Bay. The mood on Croagh Patrick was totally different on the way back with rain showers and sunshine casting eerie shadows and lighting.  The centre of the Bay stayed warm and sunny all the way home. The cloud patterns are curious here. Clare Island parts the clouds as the come in off the Atlantic, and they get caught on the peaks of Croagh Patrick and Nephin on either side, while the middle of the Bay stays remarkably clear on many days .  Already we realized that we’d had more time on the water this year than all of last year and it’s only February. May the good fortune continue to shine down on us. 

How to get there

If sailing into Clew Bay, pass Clare Island (stop for a visit to Grace O’Malley’s Castle and to hike the beautiful heritage trail and unspoilt terrain) and continue toward Inishgort to pick up the marked channel into Westport Quay.  There are two recommended anchorages inside Westport Bay. The most protected is the anchorage inside Inishlyre (where there is also potable water at the pier).  The second is between Rosmoney and Collanmore. Take care to stay clear of the Mayo Sailing Club mooring field.  The pier at Rosmoney has water as well. A new pontoon installed in 2013 provides access to the pier at all water levels.  It has water and electricity. Visitors are asked not to spend more than 10 minutes tied up as the pontoon is used for access by both the islanders and the sailing club. There is a third anchorage off Dorinish More but it is very exposed to the prevailing winds.

Westport is not a port that is easily accessible.  The Quay dries out at low tide so you have to be able to tie up quayside and sit on the muddy bottom.  You also have to thread your way around shallows and hazards.  It’s a rather long way in from the anchorages and truly impractical to get in by dinghy from a sailboat.  If your vessel doesn’t draw much, there is a hole deep enough to anchor a small boat opposite Quay Cottage.  With a powerboat, however, a bit of careful navigation gets you to the heart of the action.

From the lighthouse on Inishgort, turn North to make way past Inishlyre.   Pick up the markers off Dorinish More where the channel turns East.  Follow that in toward Roman island, then follow the markers carefully to thread your way past the tip of Roman Island (factory and factory ruin) leaving the large green cone to starboard as you round into the harbour along the Quay. It’s best to stay closer to the Quay as shoals extend far into the harbour from the port shore.

What to do

Westport consists of two distinct areas. The ocean waterfront area, known as The Quay, is about 1 mile outside of the main town.  It has some shops, galleries, several pubs and restaurants, a hotel, B&Bs, as well as easy access to Westport House estate which is open to the public. 

About a mile’s walk over the hill (or a walk/ride on the Greenway) brings one into the main part of town.  Westport is one of the most picturesque towns in Ireland. It has won the Tidy Towns competition several years in a row.  The Carrowbeg River runs through town with a Mall along the river banks.  This is where festivals often take place. The rest of the town has a one-way traffic system for cars and forms a U-shaped commercial district.  Bridge Street leads from the Mall to the Clock Tower.  Shop Street leads from the Clock Tower to the Monument. James Street leads from the Monument back to the Mall.

There are pubs galore in Westport including the famous Matt Molloys.  Traditional music can be found somewhere on any given night.  Croagh Patrick looms ever present in the distance. Beaches can be found in many directions.  The Great Western Greenway, a bicycle and walking path that follows the old railway track, runs almost the entire way around Clew Bay, from Achill to Murrisk.  It is one of the most scenic routes in Ireland, and anywhere to be precise.